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November 1, 2006
It must be quite a feeling for our Winemaker, Geoff Gorsuch, when
that last grape is crushed. No more worrying about the weather,
the sugar, grape maturity. It's all safely "in the barn" as they
say,
If you've been checking our Harvest
Calendar, then you know that we started our harvest with Sauvignon
Blanc on September 12, a little later than normal, and wrapped it
up by pressing the last of the estate Cabernet Franc and Petite
Verdot October 20. Geoff commented that ".it was a rapid-fire harvest,
but quality looks great. It's demanding, but with results like this
it's also incredibly rewarding."
Every year has its surprises and this year the Howell Mountain
Cabernet amazed us by coming in the first week of crush. We think
of Cabernet as a late variety, but those gorgeous, tiny clusters
from our hillside vineyard were ready to roll.
We woke up to smoke on September 22. The Yountville fire was ushered
in by extremely low humidity and high winds that persisted for several
days. Geoff's complaint was that "With conditions like this, all
the grapes do is get sweeter. We need them to mature!" He was concerned
that dehydration might drive the sugars up without corresponding
flavor development. He took a calculated risk and decided to wait
and let the weather get back to normal, hoping the grapes would
re-hydrate. It paid off! Mild temperatures and our nightly fog returned
and we harvested nice, plump Cabernet from our home vineyard here
in the Yountville District about a week later.
We saw some light rain the first week of October, followed by reports
of crop loss in Chardonnay vineyards all over northern California.
High humidity, due to an exceptionally wet winter and spring, can
set the spores for mold early in the growing season. When followed
by late-season rains, bunch-rot is a real possibility. Chardonnay
is a tight-clustered variety and not very rot-resistant. We must
have had a guardian angel because our Chardonnay was ready for harvest
when the rains hit and we were able to get in good-looking clusters
from our Carneros vineyard before they had time to rot. For growers
of late-ripening Cabernet, fortunately, it's a tough-skinned variety
that forms loose clusters and it can stand up nicely to the small
amount of rain we experienced.
Many of our neighbors harvested through the end of the month, mostly
Cabernet at that point, and most are reporting being very happy
with the small grape size, generally low yields, uniform ripening
and overall high quality of this year's harvest. We certainly are.
And this, after a year that presented us with floods, late bud-break,
a prolonged heat-wave in July and low humidity and high winds in
September that whipped up the Yountville fire. These were significant
hiccups, courtesy of Mother Nature, but when you take a step back
and look at the season as a whole, we had quite a cool growing season
overall, almost no rain, and even ripening.
Geoff summarizes it this way: "Crop yields were way down from last
year, the berries were small and loaded with flavor and we've got
intense, deep color in the reds. The very mild weather we've had
in September and October was great for hang-time and allowed for
plenty of flavor development without too much sugar. Overall balance
looks terrific. We're thankful to be able to say that it looks like
an excellent vintage for us." Click here for the reports from September
1, July 1 or May
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